Wadi Ghul lies at the foot of Jebel Shams, where a deep canyon opens in the mountain wall, and it has the nickname of the Grand Canyon of Oman, a title the locals are happy to use even if the scale is smaller. From the rim, the cliffs fall away for about a kilometre, a vast trench of grey and ochre rock, with the dry bed of the wadi twisting at the bottom. On the canyon wall, a few abandoned villages cling to the slopes, houses of stone and mud that look like a bird's nest on a ledge. A narrow footpath, known as the Balcony Walk, follows the rim at a dizzying height, and it is a popular walk for those with a head for heights.
The road to the canyon climbs from Al Hamra in a series of bends, and the last stretch is gravel, often rough and loose, with steep sections and sharp corners. It needs a high-clearance vehicle and a steady hand, and a motorbike should be sturdy and the rider confident. The altitude brings cooler air, and in winter the nights are cold, with frost on the ground. On a clear day, the view of the canyon in the early morning, when the light rakes across the walls, is a revelation.
The Hajar mountains are old, and the rocks here include slabs of ancient sea floor pushed up and across the land, a geologists' dream. Goats and wild tahr, a rare mountain goat, live on the cliffs, though you are unlikely to see the tahr. Eagles ride the thermals above the rim, and the silence is deep. A few families still live on the plateau, keeping goats and growing a few crops, and you may meet them as you ride. They are polite and welcoming, so greet them in the traditional way, with salaam alaikum.
Al Hamra has stations, and Bahla, a bit farther away, is a larger town, with more choice. Fill the tank in Al Hamra, and carry water and food, since camps near the rim offer only basic meals. Respect the edge, as there are few barriers, and ride slowly. Do not go near the edge in wind or in the dark.