Between Melk and Krems, the Danube runs through a valley of steep terraced vineyards, apricot orchards and tiny medieval towns, and the whole stretch is a UNESCO cultural landscape. The Wachau is one of the most beautiful river valleys in Europe, and it has been shaped by human hands for two thousand years. Walls of dry stone hold the terraces in place, and above them, forests climb to the plateau. The vineyards produce some of Austria's best white wines, mostly Gruner Veltliner and Riesling, and the orchards produce the Marille, the apricot, which blossoms in April and is made into jam, schnapps and dumplings in July.
Spitz and Weissenkirchen are two of the prettiest villages. Spitz has a church with a crooked tower, narrow lanes and a famous vineyard slope, and Weissenkirchen has a fortified church and a lively wine tavern culture. Between them lies Durnstein, with the blue tower of its baroque abbey and a ruined castle above, where, according to tradition, King Richard the Lionheart was held prisoner in 1192 after returning from the Crusades. You can take a small ferry across the river at Spitz, one of the few left on the Danube, and drink a glass of wine in a courtyard, called a Heuriger when the winemaker serves his own.
The riding along the river is gentle, with the road following the valley floor. It is a delight on a weekday, with the river on one side and the vineyards on the other, but on sunny weekends, the Wachau fills with cyclists, tourists and motorbikes, and traffic can slow to a crawl. For a quieter experience, take the side roads up to the plateau, through forest and farmland, where the views over the valley are splendid. The best seasons are spring, for the blossom, and autumn, for the grape harvest and the colours.
Spitz is small, and fuel is better bought in Krems, the larger town to the east, though villages along the river have a petrol pump or two. Wine taverns serve cold plates and local wine, and many have gardens by the river. If you plan to taste wine, give yourself time, or leave the riding for the next morning.