Vladimir was the capital of northeastern Russia in the twelfth century, long before Moscow mattered, and its main monuments are still the ones its princes built. It sits on a ridge above the Klyazma river, about two hundred kilometres east of Moscow, and today it is a city of over three hundred thousand with a quiet historic core and ordinary suburbs. Prince Andrei Bogolyubsky moved the centre of power here in the 1150s, and his successors poured their wealth into white limestone churches that are among the finest in the country.
The Assumption Cathedral, finished in 1160 and expanded later, stands on the edge of the ridge, its gold dome visible from far down the valley, and inside are frescoes by Andrei Rublev, the great icon painter, from the early fifteenth century. The Golden Gate, a defensive tower and gateway built in 1164, still stands in the middle of the town with a small church in its upper level. The nearby Cathedral of St Demetrius is covered in intricate carvings of animals, saints and plants in pale stone. Together with the churches of Suzdal and the little Church of the Intercession on the Nerl, these buildings form a UNESCO World Heritage listing.
The Intercession on the Nerl, at Bogolyubovo, a short ride from town, is a small white church standing by a meadow that floods in spring, so that it seems to float. It was built in 1165 and is often described as one of the most perfect small buildings in Russia. The walk across the fields to reach it is a pleasant one, particularly in early morning when mist hangs over the water.
For riders, the roads around Vladimir are gentle and unhurried, with long straight stretches between villages, farmland and birch woods. The M7 highway from Moscow is fast and busy with trucks, and the older roads give a better sense of the country, though surfaces can be rough, particularly after winter. Suzdal, to the north, and Murom, to the east, have a quiet charm, and the Oka river, one of the great rivers of central Russia, is worth seeing.
Vladimir has plenty of fuel, food and repairs, and the nearby towns of Kommunar and Bogolyubovo have a few services. Summer is warm and green, autumn golden, and winter cold and snowy, and honey, pickles and pies are good to try at local cafes.