Few riders get the chance to cross a river hanging from a bridge, but at Portugalete you can. The Vizcaya Bridge, opened in 1893 across the mouth of the Nervión just downstream of Bilbao, is the oldest transporter bridge in the world: a tall iron structure from which a gondola, suspended on cables, glides from one bank to the other carrying cars, motorcycles, bikes and pedestrians in a couple of minutes. It was designed by the Basque architect Alberto de Palacio, often described as a disciple of Gustave Eiffel, to let tall ships pass beneath while still linking the two towns, and UNESCO listed it in 2006.
The bridge connects Portugalete, an old port town with steep streets and a Gothic church, with Getxo, the wealthy suburb where Bilbao's industrialists built grand villas along the shore. The contrast tells the story of the estuary: on one side the working-class towns that grew around the iron mines, steelworks and shipyards, on the other the mansions of the people who owned them. You can also take a lift to the top of the bridge and walk across the high walkway, with views down the estuary to the sea and up towards the city.
Riding in the Bilbao area is urban, busy and hilly. Traffic is dense, roundabouts frequent and parking tight, but drivers are generally disciplined. Once out of the city, the Basque coast and interior are superb for motorcycles, with twisting roads through green hills, fishing villages such as Bermeo and Lekeitio, and the cliffs and hermitage of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, all within an easy day. The weather changes constantly, and rain is frequent all year, so expect damp patches even on sunny days.
Fuel, food and parking are plentiful in Portugalete and Getxo. Along the riverside promenade, bars serve pintxos, small snacks on bread, and a glass of txakoli, the slightly sparkling local white wine. Try grilled sardines or bacalao al pil-pil, salt cod in an emulsified garlic and olive oil sauce. If you take the gondola, ride on slowly, follow the staff's instructions, and enjoy one of the strangest short crossings in Europe.