Viroqua sits on a ridge in the Driftless country of southwestern Wisconsin, and the rolling, many-folded land around it is the point. The glaciers that flattened most of the Midwest flowed around this region, and the result is a maze of steep hills, narrow valleys and winding creeks that feels more like Appalachia than Wisconsin. Farms cling to the ridgetops, and the valleys below hold cool springs and trout streams, so every road seems to climb a crest or dive into a hollow.
The town is a pleasant surprise. A handsome Art Deco theater from the 1920s, the Temple, anchors the downtown, and the shops and cafes around the square cater to a mix of old farm families and newcomers who came for organic farming. The area is a hub of the organic movement, with a large cooperative of dairy farms nearby, and the Saturday farmers' market in the center is a delight for local cheese, bread and vegetables. Amish families, who farm with horses, live in the surrounding hills, and their buggies are a common sight on the roads, along with signs selling quilts, baked goods and furniture.
For a rider the roads are the draw. County highways wind through the coulees, with curves, short climbs and long views, and the Kickapoo River valley to the east is one of the crookedest rivers in the country, twisting back and forth through steep wooded bluffs. The Kickapoo Valley Reserve preserves land that was meant for a dam in the 1960s, an unfinished project that was eventually abandoned. Westby, a few miles away, is a Norwegian-American town where lefse and Syttende Mai celebrations keep the old traditions alive.
Viroqua has fuel, a supermarket and a number of good places to eat, and it is the best base for exploring the area. La Crosse, about forty kilometers west, is the larger city. The best season is mid-October, when the hills glow with color, though spring is lovely, with redbud and new leaf. Watch carefully for buggies, which are slow and sometimes hard to see around curves, particularly at dusk. Gravel on road shoulders and sudden fog in the valleys are other hazards.