Vilcabamba has a reputation that is bigger than it is. The small town in a sheltered valley south of Loja, at about 1,500 metres, was once marketed as the Valley of Longevity, with stories of residents living to well over a hundred, though researchers who checked the records found such claims did not stand up. What is true is that the climate is hard to fault: mild, sunny and dry for most of the year, with cool nights, which is why the valley has drawn a steady stream of foreign settlers and a laid-back community of artists, retirees and hikers.
The mountains give the place its look. Behind the village rises Mandango, a ridge shaped like a sleeping figure, which is a popular walk, and the edges of Podocarpus National Park reach nearby with cloud forest, waterfalls and orchids. Birdwatching is excellent, and the valley is a good place to see hummingbirds in gardens. Horse riding, hot springs and herbal medicine have all become part of what visitors do, and the central plaza has the relaxed feel of a village where nobody is in a hurry.
The ride from Loja takes about thirty kilometres, and it is one of the nicest short roads in the south. It climbs out of the city, crosses a ridge, and winds down through eucalyptus, farmland and small settlements into the valley, with good tarmac, steady bends and wide views. Traffic is light, apart from the occasional bus, and the best time is the morning, when the sun picks out the folds of the hills. Dogs and animals are an occasional hazard on the road.
For practical needs, Vilcabamba is small, and the safer approach is to fill the tank in Loja, though there may be a pump in the area, so ask locally. Guesthouses and cafés are plentiful, with vegetarian food and fresh juices, thanks to the visitors, and local coffee and cheese are good. Take a swim if your accommodation has a pool, and expect warm days and cool evenings. Go slowly through the village, where pedestrians and pickups share the narrow streets.