Vevang is the village at the southern end of the Atlantic Road, on the mainland side, where the road comes ashore after its dance across the skerries and the landscape shifts from sea to land. It is a small place, a scatter of farms and houses, with a harbour and a few boats. The coast here is rough and low, with bare rock, thin grass and bright lichen, and in the late evening the light turns the rock to copper. A short distance away, there is a rest area on a headland with a walkway and a platform where you can stand and watch the waves.
I like Vevang for what it tells you about the road. The Atlantic Road has a reputation as a tourist attraction, and it is one, but it is also a local road, linking small communities that live by the sea. Fishing and fish farming remain important, and the houses are low and tough, painted in strong colours, built to survive the weather. On an ordinary day you see trucks carrying fish and farm machinery, and locals going about their business among the visitors. That is a good thing, because it keeps the place honest.
The ride here is easier than it looks, with gentle bends and a good surface, but the traffic can be an issue. In summer, drivers slow down or stop suddenly for photographs, and cyclists and walkers share the road. Watch the mirror, signal early and be patient. The wind is a constant companion, and in a gale a motorbike can be pushed around, so stay alert. The road can close in storms, and signs warn when that is the case, so take them seriously.
Eide, the municipality's main village, is a short way inland, with a few shops, a school and some services. It is small, and the nearest big town is Kristiansund, about twenty-six kilometres away, which has all the fuel, food and repairs you could need. Molde lies in the other direction, a longer ride. A flask of coffee and a bag of buns are good companions here, and a place on the rocks out of the wind is a fine spot for lunch. Whatever the weather, a visit at dawn or dusk is rewarding, as the light on the sea is extraordinary.