Claude Monet moved to Vétheuil in 1878, and the village has never forgotten it. He was poor, his wife Camille was ill and the family shared a house with another household, but the Seine here, curving gently under the chalk bluff, gave him a subject that he painted again and again: the church on its hill seen across the water, the river in winter ice, the poplars and the light on the islands. Camille died in 1879 and was buried in the village cemetery, and Monet left in 1881, settling at Giverny two years later, where he would spend the rest of his life.
The photo spot is right for that view. From the road on the opposite bank, near Lavacourt, you look across the Seine to the village, with the Gothic and Renaissance church of Notre-Dame rising above the roofs, a view that has changed surprisingly little in a century and a half. The best light is early in the morning, with mist on the water, or in the late afternoon, when the sun turns the stone to honey.
The river here loops in a series of broad meanders, bounded by chalk cliffs and wooded slopes, and the countryside is a mix of fields, orchards and small villages. The Vexin plateau rises behind, and the road along the river is quiet, winding and pleasant. The surface is generally good, with some patches, and traffic is light outside weekends, when visitors come to see the village and the Monet sites.
The nearest towns of any size are Limay and Mantes, where you will find fuel, supermarkets and cafes, while Vétheuil itself has a bakery, a bar and a couple of restaurants. The village is small and steep, with narrow streets, so parking is limited and a walk to the church is a good idea.
In the cooler months, mist often lies on the river until mid-morning, and the damp air can make the road slippery, particularly on the lower bends. Bring a layer, a camera and a little patience.