Kenozero is one of those places that makes you rethink what the Russian north is. The lake sits in the south of Arkhangelsk Oblast, among low forested hills and a chain of connected lakes, and around it stand villages of grey log houses, old chapels and wooden crosses, a landscape of almost medieval completeness. It is a national park and a UNESCO biosphere reserve, protected not only for its wildlife but for the traditional way of life that survives here, with wooden architecture, fishing, hay meadows, and a tradition of folk painting.
The chapels are the main attraction: small, square, tent-roofed buildings of logs, many of them from the seventeenth to nineteenth centuries, standing alone on hills or beside villages, with their interiors painted with a distinctive sky ceiling, a heaven of blue and gold. Many have been restored in recent decades by the park and volunteers. The shape of the roofs, the silver of the weathered wood, and the reflections in the water make a scene that is hard to forget.
The road here is a different matter from the highways to the south. From Kargopol, the old town famous for its clay toys, the route to the lake is long, and the final stretch is likely to be gravel or dirt, with potholes and mud after rain, so a dual-sport bike is the right tool and an easy pace the right speed. Villages are far apart, and nothing is certain about shops or open doors. Bring water and food, and be prepared for bad weather. Summer brings long evenings and mosquitoes, and the best months are June to September.
Fuel is a big question mark. The park maintains guest houses and a visitor centre, but you should arrange accommodation in advance, and check which areas are open to visitors, since the park has rules and some zones need permission.
Take your time here. Stop at a chapel, take off your helmet, and listen to the wind in the grass.