Verrières-le-Buisson is one of the greener towns on the southern edge of Paris, a residential place wrapped around a large wood, the Bois de Verrières, that runs along a ridge above the Bièvre valley. Antony and Châtenay-Malabry are next door, but the trees give the town a feeling of space that is rare this close to the capital.
The name is linked to a famous family of plant breeders. The Vilmorins, whose seed company became one of the most important in the world, had their estate here, and their arboretum, planted over generations, still contains rare and old trees. Louise de Vilmorin, writer and socialite, was born in the family house. In Châtenay-Malabry, the Vallée-aux-Loups was the home of Chateaubriand, who planted many of the trees in the park himself.
The Bois de Verrières is a mixed forest of oak, chestnut and beech, crossed by paths and a few roads. It is a pleasant place to walk, and in autumn the colours are rich and warm. The Bièvre valley below has been heavily built over, but the river has been reopened in places, and green corridors follow its course.
Coming back from Fontainebleau, you ride through the southern suburbs, with plenty of traffic, roundabouts and speed cameras. The N118 and A86 are close, and the roads into Verrières are narrow and winding, with speed bumps and parked cars.
My advice is to stop at the edge of the wood before the final stretch home. Ten minutes under the chestnuts does more for a tired back than any coffee. Fuel sits along the main roads, and the town centre has bakeries for a last sugar fix.