Verona is one of those Italian cities where the Romans left such a large footprint that the later centuries had to build around it. The Arena, a first-century amphitheatre, is still used for performances, and each summer the opera festival fills its stone seats with audiences who bring candles and cushions. A few streets away lies the Piazza delle Erbe, once the Roman forum, now an open-air market beneath frescoed palaces and the old watchtower. The Adige river loops around the old town in a tight S-bend, and the stone bridges and ramparts that cross it make a handsome backdrop to evening walks.
The Scaliger family ruled Verona in the Middle Ages, and their fortress, the Castelvecchio, and their ornate Gothic tombs still dominate the city. Shakespeare set Romeo and Juliet in Verona, though he never visited, and the famous balcony of Juliet's house was added in the twentieth century, but visitors queue up to rub the bronze statue's breast for luck anyway. The food is a better draw. Try risotto made with Amarone, the rich red wine of nearby Valpolicella, and, if you are adventurous, pastissada de caval, a slow-cooked horse stew that locals love. The surrounding hills produce excellent wines, including Soave, Valpolicella and Bardolino.
For motorcyclists, Verona has a particular place in the history of the Mille Miglia, the thousand-mile road race that ran from Brescia to Rome and back between 1927 and 1957, passing through the city. The race ended after fatal accidents, but its legacy lives on in a historic regularity event for vintage cars, and the route still draws enthusiasts. North of the city, roads climb into the Lessini hills and toward Lake Garda, with winding bends through vineyards, olive groves and cherry orchards, a fine afternoon ride.
With over two hundred thousand people, Verona has everything: fuel, parking garages, hotels and restaurants. Be careful about the ZTL, the limited traffic zones in the historic centre, which are monitored by cameras, and a fine will follow you home. Park outside the centre and walk or take a taxi. Summer is hot and crowded, particularly during the opera season, so spring and autumn are more comfortable. Evening, when the stone glows warm, is the best time for a stroll.