Vermosh is where the road runs out of Albania. The last village in the Kelmend valley sits in a green bowl of meadows at around a thousand metres, ringed by steep limestone peaks of the Accursed Mountains, and the border with Montenegro is only a short distance away. The people here are Catholic highlanders, the Kelmendi, who have a reputation for fierce independence, and their stone houses, with small windows and thick walls, were built for defence as much as for shelter. Some old kulla towers still stand, a reminder of the days when blood feuds were governed by the Kanun, the ancient code of the mountains.
The pleasure of the place is its silence. Streams run clear from the hills, cattle graze on the slopes, and hay is dried in cones in the summer. Guesthouses serve food made from the farm: fresh cheese, yoghurt, grilled lamb, and raki, the local brandy, which is offered more freely than you may want. A few trails lead to higher pastures and lakes, and in summer the mountains bloom with gentian and orchids.
For a rider, the road to Vermosh is the point. From Koplik, the SH20 climbs into the valley, passing waterfalls and deep gorges, and the tarmac becomes patchy as it approaches the village, with narrow stretches and sections that can be damaged by landslides. Take it slowly, and watch for livestock and children on the road. The scenery is large and wild, and you will meet few other vehicles. The border crossing leads to Gusinje and Plav in Montenegro, but opening hours and rules for foreign vehicles can change, so check before you plan a loop.
There is no reliable fuel in Vermosh, and the nearest sizeable stations are down the valley, so fill up before you go. In Montenegro, Berane is the larger town. Carry some cash, water and a warm layer, because weather in the mountains changes fast, and nights are cool even in summer. Snow can close the road from late autumn to spring.