The Verdon is a canyon for people who thought they had seen canyons. The river has cut a gorge through the limestone of Haute Provence, some twenty-five kilometres long, with cliffs that rise as much as seven hundred metres above the green water at the bottom, and the roads that run along the rims give you ridiculous views. This stretch, between Castellane and the area of Point Sublime, runs along the northern edge, and the balcony viewpoints along the road look down into a crack in the earth that appears to have no floor.
The geology is simple and spectacular: the limestone was laid down under an ancient sea, and the river has spent millions of years sawing through it. The water is a vivid turquoise from fine mineral particles, and the rock is pale grey and ochre, with pines and box clinging on every ledge. Griffon vultures, reintroduced here some decades ago after disappearing, ride the thermals along the cliffs, and with a bit of luck you will see one pass at eye level, wings spread, as if inspecting you.
The riding is a mix of spectacle and caution. The road clings to the rim, sometimes with a modest wall and sometimes with nothing at all, and corners can be tight and blind, with sheer drops beyond the verge. The surface is mostly good, but sand and gravel gather in the bends, and the tourist traffic in summer is heavy, with campervans, hire cars and cyclists. Take it slowly and pull into the signed viewpoints rather than stopping on the road. Early morning is when the light is best and the road emptiest.
The canyon is a place for photographers, but be aware of the glare at midday and the heat that radiates from the rock. A few viewpoints have railings and small car parks, and some have short paths that lead to even better angles. In spring the hillsides are bright with broom and wild flowers, and in autumn the oak and maple turn gold.
For fuel and food, Castellane is the sensible base, with services in the town itself, while the small villages along the rim have cafes of varying quality and limited opening hours.