On 22 April 1500, a Portuguese fleet under Pedro Alvares Cabral anchored off this coast of Bahia, and the history of Brazil as a European colony began. The fleet was bound for India, and was blown far to the west, and the first mass in Brazil was held on shore a few days later. The area around Porto Seguro and Santa Cruz Cabralia is still called the Costa do Descobrimento, and the stretch of Atlantic Forest behind it is a UNESCO World Heritage listing, the Atlantic Forest Reserves of that same coast, one of the last pieces of lowland coastal forest in the north-east of the country. Veracruz Station is one of its protected areas.
The coast here is a long ribbon of white sand beaches backed by red cliffs and tall coconut palms, and behind it the forest rises in green layers. The forest is among the richest in the world in tree species, and holds many animals found nowhere else, including golden-headed lion tamarins, though you are more likely to see parrots, hummingbirds and butterflies. The Pataxo, the indigenous people of the region, still live in villages along the coast, and some welcome visitors to see their crafts and dances. It matters to approach such visits with respect.
The riding is easy and warm. The BR-367 and the coastal roads are flat or gently rolling, with palm groves and views of the sea, and the tarmac is usually good, though local roads can be patchy and there are many speed bumps in villages. Traffic builds in high season, from December to February, and at Carnival, and in July, and the best months are April to June and September to November. Rain showers can be sudden and heavy, and the heat and humidity are constant, so carry water and wear light riding gear.
Santa Cruz Cabralia, sixteen kilometres away, has fuel and shops, and Porto Seguro, the main tourist town, has all the services. Food on the coast is excellent, with fresh seafood stew called moqueca, cooked in coconut milk and palm oil, tapioca pancakes and tropical fruits. Beach bars, called barracas, serve cold drinks and grilled fish, and a stop at one is a very good reason to park the bike for an hour.