Ōme is a town of old movie billboards. Along its main street, hand-painted signs advertise classic films from the 1950s and 1960s, part of an effort to revive the town as a retro attraction, and the old shops and cafes are full of Showa-era atmosphere.
This is the gateway to the hills, and the road west from Ōme, Route 411, follows the river up to Okutama Lake. The Venus Line, as the ride is called, climbs gently, with bends and tunnels, and the surface is good. The lower part of the valley is busy, with cars and cyclists on sunny weekends, but the upper reaches are quiet and green. The Mitake gorge, with its rocky cliffs and rafting spots, is a short ride away, and the Mitake shrine on its mountain draws walkers. Autumn leaves, from late October, are spectacular.
Hannō, across the prefecture border in Saitama, has a surprising claim. The Moomin Valley Park and Metsä Village, near Lake Miyazawa, are modelled on the stories of Tove Jansson, and the area has Nordic-style buildings and forest walks. The foothills here are covered in cedar and cypress plantations, and tea fields spread across the lower slopes. The Ōme Marathon, a thirty-kilometre race held each February, is one of the oldest in Japan.
Fuel is available in Ōme, a city of nearly a hundred and fifty thousand, with stations on the main road, and it is wise to fill up before heading into the hills. The old town has soba and udon restaurants, and the local sake breweries, like the one at Sawanoi in the Mitake gorge, offer tastings. A small bakery by the station sells good bread.
Spend a few minutes reading the film posters. They are a charming reminder of a Japan that has largely vanished.