Velingrad lies in a wide basin in the western Rhodope, with wooded ridges rising on every side and the high Rila range just across the valley to the north. It is a young town by Balkan standards: it was formed in 1948 by joining three older settlements, Chepino, Lade and Kamenitsa, and it takes its name from Vela Blagoeva, a teacher and socialist activist. What really defines it is water. Dozens of mineral springs bubble up here, hot and cool, and Velingrad styles itself the spa capital of the Balkans.
Hotels with outdoor pools and spa treatments line the streets, and the town park has fountains and a small lake where Bulgarians come to rest for a week at a time. There is little to see in the way of ancient monuments; the pleasure is in the pace. Hot mineral baths, a plate of grilled meat and a glass of local wine make a restorative way to end a hard day on the road.
For riders, the area around Velingrad is a delight. Roads climb into the Rhodope through beech and spruce forest, winding past reservoirs and little villages with stone-roofed houses. The famous routes lead south to Dospat and the Trigrad Gorge, and west towards Batak, with a rolling character: not extreme, but with beautiful, flowing bends and wide views. Surfaces vary from smooth to broken, and cows and shepherds may share the road, so keep an eye on the blind corners.
Fuel is easy in a town of twenty-four thousand, and Rakitovo, a few kilometres away, is another option. In the mountain villages stations are rare, so fill up before leaving. Summers are warm and fresh at altitude; spring and autumn offer colour and cooler air. Winter snow arrives early on the higher passes.
Try local specialities like banitsa, the flaky cheese pastry, and kavarma, a slow-cooked stew of meat and vegetables in a clay pot.