Varzuga is a village at the end of a long, rough road, on the Tersky coast of the Kola Peninsula, where the Varzuga River runs into the White Sea. It has been a Pomor settlement since at least the fifteenth century, and the name appears in old Novgorod records, which makes it one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the north. The people lived by fishing, salmon above all, salt-making and sea trade, and the houses are big, tall wooden buildings with carved trim, built to survive long winters.
The great sight here is the Dormition Church, a wooden tent-roofed church built in 1674, which stands on a low rise above the river and is among the best examples of northern timber architecture. Its slender tower, silver with age, rises above the village against a wide sky, and the interior has a plain beauty. Nearby are an old wooden belfry and other buildings from the Pomor era.
The Varzuga is also one of the great Atlantic salmon rivers of Russia, with a fishery that attracts anglers from around the world, mainly from June to September. The river is wide and clear, running through forest and tundra, and the lower stretches are a tidal estuary with sandbanks and birds. Seals are sometimes seen near the mouth. The White Sea coast has long summer light, with evenings that never get dark in June.
The road to Varzuga is part of the adventure. Traffic is minimal, so a breakdown can mean a long wait, and mobile coverage is poor. Mosquitoes and midges are ferocious in July, and a head net is a good idea. The best time is probably late June to August, with the earliest and latest weeks being cooler and quieter.
Fuel is a serious issue. Bring food and water as well, since village shops are small. Spend the evening listening to the river and watching the light on the church. It is a very quiet place.