Vardzia is a whole town carved into a cliff. High above the Kura River, in the arid, rocky country of southern Georgia near the Turkish border, the face of Erusheti mountain is honeycombed with hundreds of rooms, passages, chapels and cells, the legacy of a monastery complex that was built in the twelfth century under King Giorgi III and his daughter, Queen Tamar. The idea was defence as much as devotion: a hidden refuge in the rock, tucked into the border zone against Mongol and Turkish threats. At its height it is said to have held thousands of rooms spread across many levels.
An earthquake in the late thirteenth century sheared off the outer part of the cliff and exposed the interior, which is why you now see the caves open to the air like the cells of a honeycomb. In the middle of the complex, a rock-cut church of the Dormition still has fragments of wall paintings from Tamar's time, including portraits of the royal family, and monks have returned to live here in recent decades. You can climb the stairs and tunnels, but wear shoes with proper grip, bring a torch if you can, and expect cool damp air inside after the dry heat outside.
The ride from Akhaltsikhe follows the Kura valley through dry hills, orchards and old villages, with fortresses on the heights. Khertvisi, a striking old citadel at the junction of two rivers, stands on the way and deserves a few minutes. Corners are broad and easy, the surface is mostly decent, and the valley glows golden in the late afternoon. Livestock on the road is the main hazard, followed by the odd bus taking its half of the middle.
There is nothing in the way of fuel at Vardzia itself. Akhalkalaki, to the northeast, and Aspindza and Akhaltsikhe, to the north and west, are the sensible places to fill up. Near the site, you will find small cafes and guesthouses serving simple meals. Summer can be hot and crowded with tour buses, so aim for early morning or late afternoon, and consider spring or autumn when the light is soft and the cliffs are almost empty. A modest entrance fee is usual.