Vanadzor is Armenia's third city, and it makes no attempt to charm. It sits in a bowl of the Lesser Caucasus, at the confluence of the Pambak and Vanadzor rivers, with mountains on all sides and the old Soviet industrial landscape of chemical plants, apartment blocks and wide avenues in the middle. The city was known as Kirovakan in Soviet times, after a Bolshevik leader, and it took on its present name in 1992. In December 1988, the great Spitak earthquake devastated the region, and Vanadzor suffered serious damage, some of which can still be seen.
For a rider, though, the city is the sensible place to eat, rest and refuel. A hundred thousand people live here, so there are fuel stations, markets and restaurants in good supply, and the city has a surprisingly lively cafe scene on the main street. The central market is a good place to try local produce, with piles of apricots, herbs, cheese and dried fruit, and in the cool of the evening the park fills with families and chess players.
The roads out of Vanadzor lead to some of the best riding in northern Armenia. To the north, the main highway enters the Debed Canyon, a deep gorge with steep cliffs and a river rushing through, and passes through the mining town of Alaverdi, with its monasteries nearby. To the south, the road climbs through forest toward the Dilijan range. The roads are a mix of good tarmac and rough patches, with plenty of heavy lorries, so overtaking needs care. Surfaces break up after winter, and potholes can be deep.
The mountains around the city are forested with oak, hornbeam and beech, and in spring the meadows fill with wildflowers. The weather is changeable, with summer storms and cold winters, and fog in the valleys is common in autumn. Early autumn is a particularly good time, with colourful leaves and clear days.
Because it is a working city, Vanadzor rewards a short walk. The old railway station, built in the Soviet era, has a certain grandeur, and the rows of street vendors sell everything from sunflower seeds to second-hand books. Armenian hospitality is generous, and you will often be offered a glass of something to drink.