Valldal is a village at the head of the Norddalsfjord, and each July it becomes the strawberry capital of Norway. The south-facing slopes above the water, sheltered by mountains, catch long summer light, and the berries that ripen on them are small, deep red and very sweet, with a flavour more intense than the larger kinds. Growers sell them from roadside stands, in cardboard boxes or as soft ice cream, jam and cake, and the season is short, starting in early July and ending in a few weeks. A bowl of fresh strawberries with cream, eaten on a bench with the fjord below, is a very good reason to stop.
Valldal sits at the junction of two great roads. To the south, the road climbs the Eagle Road toward Geiranger, and to the north-east, the Trollstigen road leads across the plateau to Andalsnes. The ferry from Eidsdal to Linge, a short crossing, links the two. The fjord is deep and calm, with steep slopes of birch and spruce, and small farms clinging to ledges, and in the evening the mountains turn pink.
The village has about a thousand people, and a handful of shops, a campsite and a hotel. Strawberry farms offer pick-your-own, and cafes serve waffles with cream and jam. Fuel is available at a small station, but opening hours are limited and it is not always staffed, so it is best to arrive with a reasonably full tank. Stranda, about seventeen kilometres away, has about two and a half thousand people and a larger selection.
The road to Valldal is well surfaced, with a mix of fjord-side bends, tunnels and short climbs, and traffic is heavy in July, when tourists and strawberry buyers arrive. Take it slowly and enjoy the views. Rain is common, and the mountains often vanish in cloud, but the damp makes the green of the fields even greener. Evenings are long in summer, and you can ride in daylight until after ten. In winter, many roads are closed or icy, and Valldal is quiet. If you can, come in July.