Namoradas means sweethearts, and the valley that carries the name has a gentler sound than most of the Côa country. It lies on the Côa's course towards the Douro, on the Trás-os-Montes side of the river, where the hills fold into steep valleys and the vegetation is a mix of wild scrub and the neat geometry of vineyards. The rock art of the Côa runs along the river here, and this valley belongs to the wider listed zone.
The wider zone is the key. UNESCO listed the Côa Valley and the later-added Siega Verde in Spain together, since the engravings on both sides of the border belong to the same tradition of Palaeolithic open-air art, a common artistic world that stretched across the Iberian plateau. For a long time nobody believed that such drawings could have survived in the open, and the finding in the 1990s of dozens of sites along the river forced scholars to change their minds.
Torre de Moncorvo, the nearest large town, lies about sixteen kilometres away, and it has a long history of mining, with iron ore deposits that were worked for centuries and a great Renaissance church. The town is also known for its almonds, and in the late winter the surrounding hills are covered in white and pink flowers. The local cuisine includes almond sweets, smoked sausages and hearty soups, and the regional wines are strong and fruity.
The riding is slow and scenic. Roads wind along the hillsides with tight bends, and the views of the river and the terraces are wide. Surfaces vary, and in summer the heat reflects from the stone, so ride early. Winter can be cold and frosty, with ice on shaded corners. Livestock and farm vehicles use the narrow roads, and visibility is poor on some of the blind bends. Be careful in the dry season, when fire danger is high.
For fuel, Vila Nova de Foz Côa, about seven kilometres away, is the closest reliable stop, with stations and shops. Torre de Moncorvo has a wider choice. There are no services in the valley itself, so carry water and a snack.
Come in late winter for the blossom, or in autumn for the colour. Either way, take a moment to sit above the valley and listen to the quiet.