At 1,389 metres the Valdresflye is the roof of Fv51, a broad shoulder of bare mountain between Valdres and the Jotunheimen range, and the nearest thing southern Norway has to a lunar landscape. Nothing grows taller than your ankle. The ground is stone, lichen and cushions of moss, scattered with boulders left by the ice, and small lakes lie in the hollows, still holding snow at their edges well into summer. To the north rise the big peaks of Jotunheimen, the highest mountains in northern Europe, with Galdhøpiggen above 2,400 metres, and the line of them against the sky changes with every kilometre.
The road across is a scenic route, and a good one. It climbs from the south in a series of open bends, crosses the plateau in long, easy sections, and drops towards Gjendesheim and the lake in a more twisting way. The surface is smooth and the road is wide enough for relaxed riding, with plenty of pull-outs and viewpoints. It is open only in summer, usually from late May or June until autumn, because the snow is deep and the winters are long, so check the dates. Wind and cold are the main challenges, and rain, sleet and even snow can arrive in any month. Wear warm layers, and keep a spare pair of gloves.
There are pull-outs on the plateau where you can stop and get your bearings. Look for the cairns that mark old paths, and for the sheep that wander the high ground in summer. Reindeer live in the area too, and you may spot them in the distance.
The nearest places are Beitostølen to the south and Vågåmo to the north-east, and in between there is only a mountain lodge or two. Buy petrol before you set out and carry food and a hot drink. The silence in the high country is profound, broken only by wind and the cry of a bird, and if you can pick a calm, clear evening, the long light on the mountains is something to remember.