Liechtenstein is a country you can cross in half an hour, a narrow strip of about twenty-five kilometres between the Rhine and the Austrian border, and Vaduz is its small, tidy capital with just over five thousand people. It sits under a steep hill crowned by the castle of Vaduz, a medieval fortress that is the home of the princely family, and its wide valley is closed in by the high wall of the Rätikon mountains. It is a country of banks, postage stamps, dental products and orderly lawns.
The castle is not open to the public, but the walk up through the vineyards gives a view of the Rhine valley and the Swiss mountains beyond. The prince's own vineyards produce a well-regarded wine in the valley below, and a small number of museums, including one for modern art with a striking black building, make a short visit worthwhile. The main street is pedestrian and lined with sculpture and cafes, and the whole town can be explored in an hour.
Riding in Liechtenstein is a pleasure in a quiet way. The road leads from the valley up to the village of Triesenberg, settled in the thirteenth century by Walser people from the Valais, who still keep their own dialect, and on to the Malbun ski area, with a series of tight bends and fine views of the Rhine plain. The surface is good, and the traffic is light. The roads are narrow and winding, and in winter the upper parts are covered in snow.
Practicalities are easy. The currency is the Swiss franc, and you can use cards almost everywhere. Fuel is available in Vaduz and Schaan, though prices are in line with Switzerland. A passport is no longer checked at the border with Switzerland, but you may be asked for papers at the Austrian side. A Swiss motorway vignette is valid for the motorway that passes along the valley.
The best time to ride is from May to October, though the valley can be hot in July and August. Autumn brings clear air and golden vineyards, and the Rhine valley is often filled with mist in the morning. Spend a little time in a cafe on the main street, and you will understand how a tiny state keeps its character.