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Uzungöl

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Uzungöl means long lake, and the lake in question was formed when a landslide blocked a river valley and the water backed up behind the barrier. It lies in a steep, forested valley in the Çaykara district, with spruce-covered slopes rising on every side and a mosque with a slender minaret sitting on the shore. On a still morning the mountains reflect in the water, and mist drifts across the surface, which is why the lake has become one of the best-known places on the Turkish Black Sea.

That fame has changed it. A village once stood here, and now a long strip of wooden hotels, guesthouses and restaurants lines the lake, built in the local style with balconies and carved details. Coach tours arrive in numbers in summer, especially from the Gulf countries, and weekends can be very busy. Even so, the setting is beautiful, and early in the morning or in the off-season you can still find quiet corners. The air smells of pine and wet earth, and the water, fed by mountain streams, is cold and clear. Trout is the speciality, grilled or fried, and is served in most of the lakeside restaurants.

The road from Çaykara runs up a deep valley beside a rushing stream, through tea gardens and forest, in a series of bends. It is a pleasant ride, narrow in places, with good tarmac and occasional rough patches, and it gets crowded in summer with buses and cars. Rain is frequent, and mist and cloud can hide the mountains, so patience is needed. In autumn, the forest colours are beautiful, and in winter snow often lies on the slopes. Spring and early summer bring fresh green and a good chance of clear mornings.

Fuel is available in Çaykara, about fifteen kilometres away, and you should fill up there before heading up, since there is little in the valley. In the village you can find shops, cafés, bakeries and plenty of places to eat, and the local honey and cheese make good souvenirs. A walk around the lake takes about an hour.

The area is one of the most conservative parts of Turkey, so modest dress and respectful behaviour are appreciated, and the locals are generally friendly to visitors. Take time for tea by the water and enjoy the mountains.

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