Utsukushigahara is a high plateau in the Japanese Alps, at about two thousand metres, and the Venus Line is the road that carries riders up to it. The name means Beautiful Highland, and the open grassland on top is used as summer pasture, with cattle grazing among the wildflowers. Matsumoto, about thirteen kilometres away, is the large city below, with a famous black castle and plenty of fuel and food. Up on the plateau there is little more than a couple of rest houses, an open-air museum of sculptures and a few car parks, so supplies belong in your tank before you climb.
The Venus Line is a classic Japanese touring road, with long, smooth, sweeping bends through forest and then open highland, and spectacular views of the Northern Alps on a clear day. The surface is excellent, and the speed limits are low and enforced, so a relaxed pace is best. In the cooler parts, fog can fall quickly, and in autumn the colours are brilliant. The road is closed in winter because of snow, and usually reopens in spring. Weekends see crowds of motorcyclists and cars, and in Japan there is a polite culture of waving to fellow riders.
The nature on the plateau is distinct. Alpine flowers bloom in short bursts in summer, and the grass turns golden in autumn. Skylarks sing over the pasture, and the wind is cool even in July. The Utsukushigahara Open-Air Museum, with sculptures by Japanese and international artists scattered among the meadows, is a quirky and pleasant stop. The air smells of grass and cattle, and the quiet when engines stop is striking.
In Japan, mountain rest houses serve simple but satisfying food: curry rice, soba noodles, and soft-serve ice cream, which in the highlands is often made with local milk. Take cash, as small places may not accept cards. Coming here on a weekday morning in June or late September is ideal, when the traffic is light and the sky is clear. The Venus Line ends at a high point, but the ride down the other side, back toward Matsumoto, is a good reward.