Ushguli is a cluster of four small villages at roughly 2,100 metres, high in Upper Svaneti, and it is often described as one of the highest continuously inhabited settlements in Europe. It sits at the head of the Enguri valley, beneath Mount Shkhara, which at over 5,000 metres is the highest peak in Georgia and part of the main Caucasus ridge. Svaneti as a whole is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the thing that makes it special is the medieval towers, square, tapering stone defence towers, some up to five storeys, that rise above almost every household. Families used to shelter in them during blood feuds and avalanches, and many still stand.
The setting is extraordinary. Stone houses and towers cling to a grassy slope, rivers run clear and cold below, and in summer the meadows are full of wildflowers, with cattle and pigs wandering through the lanes. There is a small church, Lamaria, with old frescoes, on a ridge above the village, and a path continues up toward the glacier. Life is simple and the winters are long; the villagers have survived for centuries by being self-reliant.
The road to Ushguli is part of the appeal and part of the challenge. From Mestia it runs for about forty-five kilometres, partly paved and partly gravel, over a high shoulder with steep drops and a good many hairpins. It takes two hours or more and can be rough, with mud, rockfalls and stream crossings after storms. Snow closes it in the cold months, and it is generally passable only from late spring to autumn, so check conditions with locals before you commit. The road on toward Lentekhi crosses a high pass and is rougher still. A bike with decent ground clearance and a rider with patience will be rewarded.
The villages have guesthouses where hosts serve kubdari, a local meat pie, along with soft cheese, bread and homemade wine. Go early in the morning, when the light on the towers is soft and the mist lifts from the valley, and stay the night if you can. The place feels different when the day-trippers leave.