US 129 at Deals Gap is eleven miles of US 129 that has made a small place called Deals Gap famous around the world. On this short road, on the border between Tennessee and North Carolina, there are some three hundred curves, with no junctions and no driveways, squeezed between the Great Smoky Mountains and the Cheoah River gorge. For many motorcyclists, it is a pilgrimage, and the summit area is the place where riders gather to compare notes, buy a souvenir, and look at the wreckage of bikes that did not make it.
The land is old and green. The Appalachians are among the oldest mountains on Earth, worn down over hundreds of millions of years into rounded, forested ridges, and the road follows a narrow valley through thick hardwood forest of oak, hickory, and tulip poplar. The air is humid and green, and in autumn the leaves turn red and gold. Nearby Fontana Dam, the tallest dam in the eastern United States, holds back a long lake, and the Appalachian Trail passes over its top, so hikers on long journeys often appear at the roadside.
The riding is the main event. The road is tight, twisting, and well maintained, with corners that run together in an unbroken chain. It demands full attention: gravel, oil, wet leaves, and the occasional vehicle coming the other way across the centre line are real hazards. Speed limits are low and enforced, and police and photographers are present, so ride within your limits. Traffic is heavier at weekends, and mornings midweek are much quieter. The best seasons are spring and autumn, and winter ice can close the road.
Fuel is usually available at the resort at Deals Gap, but supplies are not guaranteed, so fill up in Maryville or Robbinsville before you ride. Maryville, about twenty-four kilometres from the summit, has everything, while Robbinsville is smaller, with a few stations and restaurants. Take water, and keep an eye on the weather, because thunderstorms are common in summer, and fog can settle in the hollows. After the ride, a meal and a cold drink with fellow riders is part of the experience, and the stories in the car park are as good as any.