US 129 at Deals Gap is eleven miles of US 129 between Deals Gap in North Carolina and Tabcat Creek in Tennessee, with 318 curves, and every motorcyclist in the southeastern United States has heard of it. The road crosses the edge of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and the Cherokee and Nantahala National Forests, and it twists and doubles back on itself in a way that seems almost deliberate. The curves are tight, the camber is off in places, and there are no junctions, driveways or houses to break the sequence. It is not a road for speed, but for rhythm and concentration, and riders speak of it with respect.
Deals Gap, at the North Carolina end, is the centre of the scene. A little resort sits by the road, with a shop, a restaurant, and a famous collection of broken motorcycle parts known as the Tree of Shame, hung up by riders who have come to grief on the road. The resort has been a gathering point for decades, and the walls are covered with stickers and photographs. Photographers set up along the road and sell pictures of passing riders, which is part of the culture. The beautiful lake nearby is Calderwood, and the Cheoah Dam, a short distance away, featured in a famous film chase in the 1990s.
Be sensible. Crashes happen here every year, and the road is patrolled by police, with strict speed enforcement. Ride within your limits, keep to your side of the line, and never cross the centre. Gravel, wet leaves and oil spills collect in the corners, and cyclists and cars sometimes travel the road. Weekends, particularly in summer and autumn, can be crowded, so aim for a weekday, early in the morning, when the road is clear and the mist lies in the hollows. In winter, ice can close the road for a time.
The surrounding country is dense forest of oak, hickory and rhododendron, with creeks and waterfalls, and black bears roam the hills. Fall colour is excellent, and the spring wildflowers are lovely.
Services are limited. There is a store and restaurant at Deals Gap, but check for fuel before you arrive, and do not count on it. Robbinsville, twenty-one kilometres away, and Maryville, thirty, are the safe places to fill up. Carry water, and tell someone your plans, as cell signal is poor in the hills.