Ürgüp has the air of a town that is comfortable with itself. It is one of the larger places on the Cappadocia plateau, with some sixteen thousand people, and it spreads across the foot of a rocky hill pocked with old cave dwellings, with stone houses in the old quarter and a lively centre of shops and cafés. Unlike Göreme, it has not been wholly given over to visitors, and in the evening the main square fills with families and teenagers rather than tour groups.
The stone houses are a delight. Many were built by Greek and Armenian craftsmen in the nineteenth century, using the same pale tuff that surrounds the town, with arched doorways and carved window frames, and some have been turned into boutique hotels. Rock-cut churches and dwellings lie in the cliffs above, and a hill at the edge of town gives a view across rooftops to the strange cones beyond. The region has an ancient tradition of winemaking, thanks to the volcanic soil and dry climate, and the vineyards around Ürgüp produce local grapes with names that few people outside Turkey know. Many small wineries welcome visitors, and tasting the local red is a pleasure, though a sip is wise if you are riding.
The roads around Ürgüp are among the best on the plateau, with wide, smooth asphalt winding between fields and rock formations, and gentle gradients, so riding is relaxed. Traffic is light outside the high season, though minibuses and tractors share the road. In summer the sun is intense, and the plateau can be hot and dusty, so start early. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with clear light, cool mornings and colourful fields. Winter brings cold, sometimes snow, which makes the cones look strange and beautiful.
Practically, Ürgüp is the sensible base on the plateau. It has petrol stations, banks, pharmacies, supermarkets and a good choice of restaurants, so you can fill the tank and restock easily. Local dishes include manti, small dumplings with yoghurt, pottery kebab cooked in clay, and sweet dishes with walnuts and grape molasses. The market is lively on the weekly market day, with fruit, vegetables, cheese and textiles piled on tables.
An evening stroll through the old streets, with the smell of grilled meat and the sound of conversation, is worth the time.