At 2,145 metres, Urdele is the highest paved road pass in Romania, and the Transalpina makes sure you earn it. The final stretch from Rânca runs along the bare crest of the Parâng range, above the tree line, where the landscape is grass, rock and sky. Wind is the main sound, and the clouds seem close enough to touch. There are no trees at all, only mountain pasture dotted with sheepfolds, and on the right day you can see almost the full length of the Carpathian chain.
The road has an old story. The route is said to follow a line used since Roman times, but what is certain is that shepherds drove their flocks across it for centuries, taking sheep to high summer pastures and bringing them down for the winter. In the twentieth century the track was widened for military use, and only in recent decades has it been fully paved. Today you share it with motorcyclists, cyclists and the odd tractor, along with flocks and guard dogs. Cattle grids are rare, so expect animals on the tarmac and give them room.
The riding is exhilarating but exposed. The road climbs in long, easy bends with generous views, and on the crest it drops steeply on one side with little in the way of barriers. Fog and cold rain can arrive in minutes even in summer, and a sunny morning can turn into sleet by afternoon. The pass is normally open only from early summer to autumn and can close at any time if snow falls, so check locally before you set out. Start early to enjoy the clearest light, and take extra care on damp surfaces.
Nobody sells petrol at this height. The nearest places to fill the tank are Novaci on the south side and Petroșani or Petrila on the north, around twenty kilometres away, so plan your range carefully. A few seasonal stalls sometimes sell cheese, honey and warm drinks near the summit, but do not count on them.
Take a few minutes at the top to enjoy the quiet. The air is thin, the horizon enormous, and the sense that you have climbed above everything is hard to forget.