It is a remote corner. Babugent and Zhemtala are the nearest settlements down the valley, and the nearest real town of any size, Kashkhatau, is about twenty-four kilometres away, so plan fuel before you climb.
The ride is a pleasure for anyone who likes quiet mountain roads. The Cherek valley climbs steadily between steep, forested walls that open into wide pastures, with the Cherek river tumbling white beside the road. The tarmac is narrow and patchy in places, with frost heaves, potholes and the occasional landslide, but traffic is light and the corners are mostly open and flowing. A dawn start gives you cool air, soft light on the ridges and empty road. In summer, midday brings heat in the lower valley and cloud in the upper, so keep a jacket handy.
The people here are Balkars, a Turkic mountain people who have herded sheep and cattle in these valleys for centuries. Their stone towers, which stand like chess pieces on the slopes, were built as refuges and watchtowers, and the oldest are several hundred years old. In 1944 the whole Balkar population was deported to Central Asia, and they were not allowed home until the late 1950s. The memory is still present in the villages, and a Balkar household will often welcome a rider with tea, bread and cheese, which is a lesson in how people can hold history and hospitality together.
The surrounding nature is spectacular. Close to this valley lie the Blue Lakes, a group of karst lakes whose water is a startling turquoise, and the nearby mountains rise past four thousand metres, with glaciers visible on clear days. Alpine meadows are alive with flowers in July, and the air smells of crushed grass, woodsmoke and cold water.
For practical purposes, treat this as the end of the road. Fill the tank in Kashkhatau or lower, carry water and snacks, wear layers, and leave time for the way back. Mobile coverage can disappear in the upper valley, so tell someone your plan.