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Unfriedshausen

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Unfriedshausen is a hamlet in the rolling farmland west of the Ammersee, part of the municipality of Geltendorf in the Landsberg district of Bavaria, and if you have never heard of it, you are in good company. This is the gentle, prosperous countryside between Munich and Augsburg, a patchwork of fields, meadows, spruce woods, onion-domed churches and farmhouses with balconies full of geraniums, and it is the kind of place where the main event of the day might be a tractor crossing the road.

The village name sounds almost like unpeace in German, which is fitting enough, because the Lech plain just to the west has seen its share of war. In 955, somewhere on the Lechfeld south of Augsburg, Otto the Great defeated the Magyars in a battle that ended their raids into Western Europe and helped him become emperor. Augsburg itself, about twenty-five kilometres to the northwest, is one of Germany's oldest cities, founded by the Romans, and its water management system, a network of canals, water towers and fountains drawing on the Lech and Wertach rivers, was added to the World Heritage list in 2019.

The riding around here is relaxed rather than thrilling. Country roads link villages like Weil, Scheuring and Egling, with gentle curves, small hills and long views to the Alps on clear days, especially when the föhn wind blows from the south and the mountains seem close enough to touch. Traffic is light on weekdays, busier on weekends when Munich residents head for the lakes. Watch for farm machinery, mud on the road during harvest and cyclists, who are everywhere in Bavaria.

There is not much in Unfriedshausen itself; Geltendorf, seven kilometres away, has a station and basic services, and the larger towns of Landsberg am Lech, with its medieval old town and the Lech weir, and Fürstenfeldbruck have everything. The Ammersee, a short ride east, has lakeside beer gardens, boats and the monastery of Andechs on its hill above the eastern shore, famous for its beer brewed by monks. A cold Helles in a beer garden under the chestnut trees is the proper end to a summer day here.

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