Unaweep Canyon is a geological oddity. Most canyons have a river running through them, in one direction, from a high end to a low one. This one has two creeks, East Creek and West Creek, flowing in opposite directions from a low divide in the middle, so that the valley appears to drain both ways at once. The canyon was carved by an ancient river, probably the Colorado or Gunnison, that flowed through it millions of years ago before something diverted it, and geologists are still arguing about what. The name is generally given as a Ute word, sometimes translated as canyon with two mouths.
It is a majestic place. The walls are towering cliffs of dark Precambrian granite and gneiss, with red sandstone above, and the valley floor is a wide green strip of meadow, cottonwood and ranch fields. State Highway 141 follows it for about fifty miles between the Grand Valley and Gateway, the road running in a gentle, curving line between the walls, with long straights and sweeping bends. It is a quiet road, with little traffic, big sky and a sense of being very far from the interstate. The Unaweep-Tabeguache byway takes its second name from the Tabeguache band of the Ute, who lived in this country.
The ride is excellent in spring and autumn, when the temperatures are mild and the light is soft. In summer, the heat can be fierce on the west side, and thunderstorms build over the plateau in the afternoon. In winter, the upper canyon sees snow and ice. Watch for cattle on unfenced stretches, for deer at dusk, and for rock fall after storms. The canyon is a favourite with climbers and mountain bikers, and you may see vehicles with bikes on the roof.
Farther south, the road emerges into the red cliffs of the Dolores River country, with old uranium workings and the remains of a remarkable hanging flume, a wooden water channel built along the cliff face in the 1880s to carry water to gold diggings. Fuel needs thought. Grand Junction, about twenty kilometres from the east end, has everything, and Orchard Mesa has stations too, but the canyon itself and the village of Gateway have limited services, and Naturita, to the south, is the next sizeable place. Fill up in Grand Junction, carry water, and take your time.