The most surprising thing at Umm ar-Rasas is a tower. It stands alone in the fields about a kilometre north of the old town, a tall square column of stone, about fifteen metres high, with no door and a small chamber at the top, and it was built for a stylite, one of those early Christian ascetics who lived on top of pillars to be closer to heaven and further from the world. Stylites became famous in Syria in the fifth century, and this tower, which dates from the Byzantine period, is one of very few that survive in the region, and it may have been used as late as the ninth century. A monk lived in that little room, and pilgrims came to see him.
The second surprise is the floor of the Church of Saint Stephen, in the old town. It is a mosaic, laid in the year 785 according to an inscription, and it shows a map of cities of the region, including Jerusalem, Nablus, Gaza, Philadelphia and the towns of the Nile Delta, each drawn as a walled town with towers and gates, in tiny coloured stones. Around them are hunting scenes, fish and birds. It is a rare thing: Christian art made under Muslim rule, in a time when some images were being defaced, and in places you can see where faces were erased. The mosaic is protected under a roof and has been conserved, and the site was listed by UNESCO in 2004.
Both are reached by quiet roads across the plateau, between the King's Highway and the edge of the desert. You pass fields of wheat and barley, goat herds and low villages, and the countryside has a bare, open beauty. The surface is mostly good tarmac, but patches are broken, and a strong crosswind often blows. Signs may be limited, so go prepared with a map. The ruins are open and usually uncrowded, with a small ticket office, and a caretaker will unlock the church if needed.
Bring water, and sun protection for the walk across the ruins. Spring is the loveliest season, when the plain is green and the wind is soft, and autumn is also pleasant. In winter, nights are cold and rain can turn the tracks to mud.