Tuva is one of those places that makes you check the map twice. It lies in the geographic centre of Asia, in southern Siberia, a republic of high steppe and dry mountain ranges, with the Yenisei starting its long run north from here. Ular and the neighbouring sites belong to the Uvs Nuur Basin, a protected area shared between Russia and Mongolia and inscribed by UNESCO in 2003 for its mix of desert, steppe, mountain and wetland, all within a few hours' travel.
Dunes and sandy patches appear nearby, and Tsugeer Els, the sand massif beside it on the ride, is a surprise, a miniature desert with small trees growing in it. In spring it can be green, in July hot and dusty, by October it is already cold.
People here are Tuvans, traditionally herders, and the culture is steppe culture: felt yurts in the pastures, sheep, horses and yaks, and the throat singing called khoomei, which sounds like two voices from one person. Buddhism and older shamanic practice sit side by side. You may be offered tea or fermented milk at a herder's tent, and refusing outright is not polite.
For the rider, this is gravel and dirt country, with tracks that split and rejoin and become soft after rain. A bike with decent clearance and a rider who can read sand are needed. Check border zone rules before going, since this area lies near the frontier and travel permissions matter. Go between June and early September, and carry more water than you think you need.