The Ulagan Pass is a high crossing in the heart of the Altai, where the road leaves the Chuya Highway and climbs into a country of rolling, treeless, wind-scoured uplands. It runs between the Chuya valley and the lands around the village of Ust-Ulagan, over a ridge that carries the landscape from forest to tundra, and the summit region, with its big skies, lichen-covered rocks and stunted larch, has an Arctic feel despite the latitude. Clouds drift low across the ridge, and on clear days you can see snow peaks on the horizon, with the long, grey line of the Chulyshman plateau beyond.
The road is part of a network that has become popular with off-road riders and drivers, and the pass is the start of some of the most challenging tracks in the region. In good conditions, the main route is manageable, with gravel and dirt in places, though the surface can be rough, with washouts, rocks and mud. After rain, the clay turns slick, and stream crossings can become deep. A dual-sport bike, good tyres and a sense of caution are the tools you need, and many people travel in groups. Weather changes fast: sun, hail and thick fog can follow each other in an hour, and at altitude, the wind is cold even in July. Snow can fall in any month, and the pass can be closed from late autumn to spring.
The land belongs to the Altaians, a Turkic people with a shamanic tradition and a deep respect for nature. They keep sheep, goats and horses on the high pastures, and you may see herders on horseback, their felt tents and wooden huts dotted along the valleys. Offerings of ribbons are tied to trees at the pass, a custom that marks the place as sacred, and passing travellers often add a coin or a stone. It is considered polite to pause for a moment.
For services, plan carefully. Ust-Ulagan, about twenty-three kilometres away, is a village with small shops and basic supplies, and Aktash, a little farther, has a few more, but fuel is not guaranteed. The sensible approach is to fill up at larger towns on the highway and carry spare, with food, water, repair tools, and warm clothing. Mobile coverage is poor in places.
Stop at the top, take off your helmet, and let the wind settle. The view over the Altai is long and quiet.