Ust-Ulagan is a small village in the Altai highlands, scattered along a river in a wide, open valley, and it is the starting point of one of the most beautiful mountain roads in the republic. The surrounding country is a landscape of high, rolling pastures, larch woods and distant snowy ridges, where herders drive sheep and horses over summer grass. It is a place of long views and few buildings, and the air is thin and sharp.
The people here are mostly Altaians, in particular the Telengits, a Turkic people with a tradition of herding and shamanism. You may see small shrines with coloured ribbons tied to trees, and horses grazing freely near the road. The local cuisine is simple and based on meat, dairy products and bread, with strong milk tea and a distilled drink made from fermented milk. Villages are small, and every passing traveller is noticed.
The Ulagan Pass road leads west from here, climbing over the ridge toward the Teletskoye Lake region. It is a mountain road that rises through meadows and then into rocky terrain, with views back over the valley and of the peaks beyond. The surface is a mixture of asphalt and gravel, and the high section can be rough, with potholes, washouts and mud after rain. Snow can linger late in spring and return early in autumn. Cloud and fog can roll in quickly, cutting visibility on the descent.
The nearby Katu-Yaryk pass is a different matter altogether, a notorious track that descends in tight serpentines on a narrow shelf above the Chulyshman valley, with long drops and little room for error. It is a challenging route for experienced riders and drivers and should not be attempted in wet weather or without good preparation. Many locals prefer to avoid it, and it is wise to ask before setting out.
Ust-Ulagan has a few shops, simple guesthouses and cafés, but fuel is limited, so fill up in the larger towns before arriving. Mobile signals are patchy. The best time to ride is July to early September, when the road is dry and the pastures are green. Autumn brings golden larches, and winter closes the high routes with snow.