Between Uedem and Kalkar, the Hochwald is a block of forest on a low ridge in the flat country of the Lower Rhine, a few kilometres from the Dutch border. It looks like a quiet, orderly German woodland, with rows of pine and beech, forest tracks and the smell of resin, but the ridge has a hard history. In February and March 1945, during the Allied offensive to clear the area between the Maas and the Rhine, known as Operation Veritable, the Hochwald was part of a German defensive line, and some of the fiercest fighting of the campaign took place among its trees, with tanks bogged in mud and infantry digging in under shell fire.
Traces of the war still occasionally appear, and the local villages hold small museums and memorials. Uedem, a town of about eight and a half thousand, has a Dutch-looking centre rebuilt after the war, with a church and a market square, and Kalkar, a little larger, is a handsome small town with a brick Gothic church whose interior is famous for its carved wooden altars from the late Middle Ages, among the best in northern Europe. Kalkar's market square, with its old town hall, is a pleasant place for a coffee.
For riders, the Lower Rhine is easy and flat. The roads cross wide agricultural land, fields of grain, potatoes and asparagus, with long straight stretches, tree-lined lanes, and farmhouses with brick barns. There are few bends, but the roads are quiet, the surface is good, and the cycle paths are excellent. The area is one of Germany's great cycling districts, so expect plenty of cyclists, especially at weekends, and take care at junctions. Wind from the west is common and can be strong on open sections. In the forest the tracks may be restricted, so keep to public roads.
Fuel, supermarkets and cafés are easily found in Uedem, Kalkar and the larger town of Goch to the north-west. Asparagus season in late April and May is a local celebration, with the white spears served with ham and potatoes at every restaurant.
Spring and early autumn are the best months, with mild days and clear light. In winter fog and drizzle can settle in.