Two hours south of the city of Mendoza, the Uco Valley opens beneath the Andes like a wide, clean page. It is a high valley, with its vineyards at between 900 and 1,500 metres, among the highest wine-growing land in the world, and the snow-covered range stands right behind them, with the volcano Tupungato, at 6,570 metres, towering above the rest. On a clear morning, the view of vines in neat rows with that wall of white behind them is one of the most striking in South America.
The valley is made up of three departments, Tupungato, Tunuyán and San Carlos, and they are agricultural places, with orchards of apples, pears and walnuts, as well as vines. Only in recent decades did Uco become a major wine region, as growers realised that the cool nights, strong light and stony, chalky soils produced fresher, more elegant wines than the lowlands. Many of the best wines are Malbec and Chardonnay, though Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc have also found a home here. The sun is fierce, and the sky is dry and so clear that the stars at night are astonishing.
The riding is quiet, with long straight roads along the valley floor and views to the mountains. Route 40, the long road that runs the length of Argentina, passes through, and side roads lead to wineries, many of which are modern, with striking architecture. Gravel tracks between vineyards are loose and dusty, and require care. In the afternoon, the wind from the mountains can be strong, and in summer, hail is a threat, which is why many vineyards are covered with nets. Hailstorms can arrive quickly, and a sudden thunderhead over the Andes is a signal to find shelter.
Many wineries here offer lunch and tasting by appointment, and the food, often grilled over vine cuttings, is memorable. Goat cheese, olive oil and fresh bread are local pleasures, and the apples are very good in autumn. Because the valley is spread out, with long distances between places, it is wise to book ahead and to plan your route.
Fuel is available in the towns of Tunuyán and Tupungato, but there is little between, so fill up when you can. Mendoza, with every service, is about a hundred kilometres to the north. The best seasons are autumn, for the colours and the harvest, and spring, for the blossom and the bright light.