Ubatuba is a beach town on the northern coast of São Paulo state, and the name comes from a Tupi word often said to mean place of the canoes. The Tupinambá, who lived here before the Portuguese came, built large wooden boats and defended the coast fiercely, and the memory of them lingers in the place names. The town claims about a hundred beaches within its municipality, a stretch of coast where the Atlantic forest comes down to the sea, with steep green mountains, rocky headlands and small bays of clear water.
The coast road, running along the foot of the Serra do Mar, links the beaches in a ribbon of curves and short climbs. In places it hugs the shore, giving views of islands and sailing boats, and in others it dips inland through forest and banana plantations. The surface is generally good, though patched in places, and the bends are moderate. Traffic can be heavy in summer and on holidays, when the town fills with visitors from São Paulo, and the road becomes slow. At other times, early morning rides are pleasant, with warm light on the water and little traffic.
The sea is warm, usually between twenty-two and twenty-six degrees, and the water is clear on the better beaches. The surf varies from calm bays suited to a gentle swim to open beaches with rolling waves popular with surfers. Currents can be strong at some beaches, so heed local warnings and flags. Along the edge of the forest, the Serra do Mar State Park protects a huge area of Atlantic forest, with trails leading to waterfalls and viewpoints. Rain is frequent, and a sudden shower can interrupt a perfect afternoon, but it passes quickly and leaves the air fresh.
Ubatuba, with about seventy-nine thousand people, has fuel stations, supermarkets, bakeries and many restaurants, and the nearest bigger town is Caraguatatuba, about forty kilometres to the west. Fresh fish, shrimp and moqueca, a fish stew with coconut milk, are on the menu in many places, and açaí bowls and fresh fruit juices are everywhere. Prices are higher in high season, so check before you order.
Parking for motorcycles is usually easy near beaches, but do not leave valuables on the bike, and take care at night. Sand and salt are hard on a motorcycle, so rinse off the dust when you can. A swim at the end of the day, with the sun going down behind the mountains, is hard to beat.