Twin Lakes sits in a basin under the highest mountain in Colorado, and it is one of the places where the Rockies feel larger than life. The two lakes, glacial in origin, lie side by side at about 9,200 feet, fed by streams from the surrounding peaks, and the great pale bulk of Mount Elbert, at 14,433 feet the highest point in the whole Rocky Mountain range, rises behind them. The village is tiny, with a few dozen residents, and the road that runs past it is the approach to Independence Pass, one of the great mountain crossings in the American West. Leadville is the nearest town, twenty kilometres away, and Aspen is on the far side of the pass.
The historic part of the village is a cluster of old log buildings, including Interlaken, a nineteenth-century resort on the south shore of the lower lake, which has been partly restored and can be visited on foot. Visitors came here in the 1880s by stagecoach to fish, picnic and dance, and the old stables, icehouse and hotel still stand among the aspens. A mile or two up the valley the road narrows and begins to climb.
Independence Pass, at 12,095 feet, is a beautiful and demanding road, and it is closed in winter, usually from November until late May. The ascent from Twin Lakes is a steep, winding climb with tight hairpins and big views, and the top is alpine tundra, bare and windy, with wildflowers in July and snow in any month. The road on the far side descends in a long series of curves toward Aspen. It is narrow, with limited barriers and no room for error. Large vehicles are discouraged, and weather can turn quickly, so be off the summit before the afternoon storms.
Fuel is in Leadville and Buena Vista, and not reliably in the village, so fill up before you come. The lakes are cold and clear, with trout fishing in the summer and ice in the winter. Autumn here is magnificent, with aspens glowing gold on the slopes and the first snow on the high peaks. A hot drink from the little store, a plate of eggs, and a walk by the water are the best way to prepare for the pass.