South of Bloomfield, on the edge of the badlands of Kutz Canyon, a small Chacoan great house sits on a ridge with views over the San Juan Basin. Twin Angels Pueblo is one of the outliers of Chaco Culture, a stone building with rooms and a kiva, built around a thousand years ago by people connected with the great centre at Chaco Canyon, about eighty kilometres to the south. It lies near the end of the Great North Road, the long, straight Chacoan road running north from the canyon, and it is part of the UNESCO-listed Chaco Culture. It is managed by the Bureau of Land Management, and reached by a rough dirt road and a short hike.
Kutz Canyon is a maze of eroded badlands, grey and red clay hills, cut by washes, and it is a strange, beautiful landscape, especially in the low light of morning and evening. The Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness, to the south-west, has even more spectacular badlands, with hoodoos and petrified wood.
Bloomfield, fifteen kilometres away, has fuel, shops and services, and Salmon Ruins, a large Chacoan great house on the San Juan river, is in the town, with a museum. Aztec Ruins National Monument, a few kilometres north, has a reconstructed great kiva. Mesa Verde National Park, across the border in Colorado, with its cliff dwellings, is a couple of hours' ride away.
For riders, the area offers long, open roads through desert and mesas, with little traffic. Highway 550 and the roads around Farmington are good, and the dirt roads to the sites are rough and can be impassable after rain. Summer is hot, with thunderstorms, and winter can be cold. Carry water, leave every potsherd exactly where you find it, respect the sites, and enjoy the vast landscape and the night skies, which are among the darkest in the country.