Tuxtla Gutiérrez is the capital of Chiapas, a big, hot, busy city in a valley at about 520 metres, and it is not the most beautiful place in southern Mexico but it is very useful. With around half a million people, it has everything from fuel to repair shops to big supermarkets, and it is the sensible place to start a ride into the highlands. The name comes from the Nahuatl for the place of rabbits, and the city's symbol is a rabbit. The Zoológico Miguel Álvarez del Toro, a zoo that focuses on the animals of Chiapas, is one of the best in Mexico and is set in a hillside forest.
The real attraction is the Sumidero Canyon, a deep gorge whose walls rise over a thousand metres above the Grijalva river. A road leads to several viewpoints at the rim, and boats run along the river at the bottom, where crocodiles bask on the banks and herons stand in the shallows. The canyon was formed by a crack in the earth's crust and later by the river, and it is spectacular in morning light. Riders can reach the viewpoints on a short, winding road from the city.
Leaving town, the route climbs toward San Cristóbal de las Casas, at over 2,100 metres, through pine forests and mountain villages. The road is a main highway, with curves, long climbs and mist, and the surface is generally decent. Trucks and buses crawl on the uphill sections, and passing requires patience. Be alert for topes, the speed bumps found in every village, and for stray livestock. In the rainy season, from May to October, fog and heavy rain are common in the highlands.
Food in Chiapas is distinct: try cochito, a pork dish, sopa de pan, and the local coffee, which is some of the best in the country. Chiapas is also home to many Maya communities, and their textiles and traditions are visible in the markets. Fill the tank in Tuxtla before the climb, take cash, and consider starting early, since the heat in the valley builds fast. By the time you reach the cool pines, the city feels far away.