Tuolumne Meadows is the largest subalpine meadow in the Sierra Nevada, a wide, grassy bowl at about 2,600 metres along the Tuolumne River, ringed by granite domes and peaks. In the early morning the grass is silver with frost even in summer, and mist hangs on the river, and the sun comes up over Lembert Dome and the long, bare ridge of Cathedral Peak. It is a favourite with climbers, walkers and photographers, and the car parks and campgrounds are busy from July to September.
John Muir came here in the 1860s and 1870s and wrote about the meadows and domes with great enthusiasm, and in 1889, he and Robert Underwood Johnson sat in this meadow and planned the campaign to make Yosemite a national park. It was established the following year, and the meadows are a good reason why. The river is clear and fast, carving its way through granite, with pools and cascades that make good places for a break. Marmots whistle on the rocks, and deer graze at dusk, and you may see a black bear if you are not careful about your food.
The Tioga Road passes through the meadows on the way to the pass, and the ride is a gentle, rolling affair. The road is level here, running beside the river, with the domes on the left and wide views to the south, and it is a good moment to relax after the climbs from the west. The surface is good, and the speed limit is low, with cyclists and walkers crossing at the visitor centre. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer, with lightning on the domes, so aim to be gone by early afternoon if the sky looks dark. Mosquitoes in July can be fierce.
Tuolumne has a grill, a store and a gas station, all seasonal and usually busy, a visitor centre, a campground and a high sierra camp, but supplies can run short, so plan ahead. Yosemite Valley is about 24 kilometres away in a straight line, but a long way by road, and the nearest town of any size, Mammoth Lakes, is beyond the pass. Park entry is by fee, and the road closes with winter snow. Fill up when you can, and bring warm layers.