In the far south of Tuva, a Russian republic on the border with Mongolia, sand dunes appear among the steppe and the mountains as if they had wandered north out of the Gobi. Tsugeer Els is one of these dune fields, near the village of Erzin, and it belongs to the Uvs Nuur Basin, a UNESCO site shared by Russia and Mongolia since 2003. The basin is a closed depression around the salt lake of Uvs Nuur, and within it you can find almost every landscape of Central Asia: glaciers, alpine meadows, taiga, steppe, semi-desert and sand dunes, all in a relatively small area.
The dunes here are a strange and beautiful sight, with pines and scrub growing on and around them, and the mountains of the Tannu-Ola range and the Mongolian highlands on the horizon. The wildlife includes argali sheep, snow leopards in the mountains, wolves, foxes and many birds of prey. Tuvans are a Turkic people with a strong tradition of herding, shamanism and Buddhism, and they are famous for throat singing, an extraordinary technique of producing several notes at once.
Riding here is a serious undertaking. Erzin is reached by a long road from Kyzyl, the capital of Tuva, which is itself a long way from anywhere; the main road is paved but often in poor condition, and beyond Erzin, tracks across the steppe and through the sand require off-road skills, good navigation and a capable bike. Sand riding is tiring and technical, and help is far away. Summers are short and can be hot, with sudden storms; winters are extremely cold.
At present, travel to Russia is restricted for many nationalities, and anyone considering a trip should check current official advice. The border with Mongolia nearby is open only at specific crossing points, and the area may require permits.
Erzin, around twenty kilometres away, has basic shops and fuel, but supplies can be unreliable; carry extra fuel, water and food. Kyzyl, home of the monument marking the supposed centre of Asia, is the main centre for services. In the villages, you may be offered salted milk tea and dairy products, and the hospitality of herders is generous. A night camping by the dunes, with a sky full of stars and the silence of the steppe, is an experience few travellers ever have.