The Tsitsikamma coast is one of the few places in South Africa where the forest comes down to the sea. The name is thought to come from the Khoi for a place of much water, and the description fits, with rivers cutting deep gorges through the mountains and dropping into the Indian Ocean through rocky mouths. Between the sea and the Tsitsikamma mountains grows an old, damp forest of yellowwood, stinkwood and ironwood, draped in lichen and ferns, which forms part of the Garden Route National Park. Some of the trees here are hundreds of years old, and the biggest yellowwoods are said to be well over six hundred years.
The forest is full of life, though much of it hides. Knysna turacos, with their crimson wings, call from the canopy, and bushbuck move through the undergrowth. Samango monkeys live in the trees, and the rivers are stained the color of tea by tannins from the vegetation. At Storms River Mouth, a suspension bridge crosses the gorge just above the sea, and the Otter Trail, a famous five-day walk, begins nearby. The smell of damp earth and salt is strong, and the sound of surf mixes with birdsong.
The N2 crosses this landscape on high bridges, including the Bloukrans Bridge, where bungee jumpers throw themselves off the highest commercial bridge bungee in the world, about two hundred and sixteen meters above the river. The old road, the R102, winds through the forest at lower speed and gives a much more intimate feel, with tight bends, tunnels of trees and the chance to stop at small craft stalls and tea gardens. It is a good motorcycle road for a relaxed day, with moderate traffic and fine scenery.
Weather matters. Rain can come in at any time of year, and the forest road is slippery when wet, with leaf litter and moss on the surface. Mist drifts in from the sea, and in winter the temperature can drop quickly. The best season is from late spring to autumn, though holiday periods bring crowds.
Fuel is sparse inside the forest. Stations are available in Storms River village and in Plettenberg Bay and Humansdorp, but they are not frequent, so keep the tank topped up. There are good places for coffee, cake and breakfast along the route, and the old forest, with its green light, is a calming place to stop.