The Tsey Gorge is one of the great mountain valleys of North Ossetia, a long, steep, forested cleft that runs south from the plain toward the high ridge of the Caucasus, ending in a glacier. The road follows the Tseydon River up from Alagir, through woods of beech, birch and pine, with the cliffs closing in and the air growing cooler, until the valley opens into a broad glade with a handful of hotels, a small ski area, and a view of the Skazsky Glacier hanging above. Mount Adai-Khokh, at 4,408 metres, stands at the head of the gorge, and its icy flanks gleam on clear days.
The valley has a sacred side. In the forest above the road stands the Rekom shrine, an ancient holy site of the Ossetians, with a chapel and a grove of trees where horned animals, deer and ibex, were once honoured, and the place was for centuries a destination for pilgrims. The traditional religion of the Ossetians blends Christianity with older beliefs, and shrines such as this are still visited on festival days. Visitors should be respectful, and some of the old customs, including limits on who may enter certain parts, are observed.
The ride up is among the best in the region. The road is narrow, with many bends, and climbs steadily along the river, with forested slopes on either side and the odd tunnel or bridge. The surface is generally good, since it serves the resort, though frost heave and rockfalls are possible, and the upper stretch can be steep and tight. In the morning, the valley is cool and shaded, and by midday, clouds often gather around the peaks. Traffic includes tourist minibuses and cars, and there is a checkpoint, as the area lies near the border zone, so keep your documents handy. Summer is the best season, from June to September, and in winter, the road is used by skiers.
Services are limited, and the nearest sizeable town is Alagir, about thirty-nine kilometres away, where you should buy fuel and supplies. The settlement at the top has hotels, cafés and a chairlift, though the choice is modest, and prices are those of a resort. Book ahead for July and August.
Look up at the glacier from the glade, and listen to the river. The air is clean and cold, and smells of pine.