Trsa lies in the high, rolling country of north-western Montenegro, close to the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina and not far from the long, narrow reservoir of Lake Piva. It is not a village that appears in many guidebooks, which is why it is pleasant to find: an upland hamlet of stone houses, hay meadows and pine woods, with the limestone summits of the Durmitor massif and the Volujak range somewhere beyond the horizon. The nearest town in Montenegro is Plužine, about ten kilometres away, and Foča in Bosnia is the closest sizeable place across the line.
The landscape here was shaped by water, ice and, more recently, concrete. The Piva river once ran through a deep canyon, until the Mratinje dam, one of the highest arch dams in Europe, was built in the 1970s, flooding the valley and creating the lake. Even the old Piva Monastery, a fine sixteenth-century church with remarkable frescoes, was taken apart and rebuilt on higher ground. The result is a long, glittering ribbon of green water in a gorge, with road tunnels cut through the cliffs above it.
Riding on the plateau is relaxed and bright. The roads wind through open farmland and forest, with moderate traffic, a decent surface and occasional potholes, and the occasional sheep or cow. Expect long, easy bends and the sight of limestone peaks on the skyline. The weather can change quickly in the mountains; summer afternoons bring storms, and winters are long and snowy, with some roads difficult. Spring and early autumn are lovely, with cool air and clear light.
For services, you should rely on the towns. Plužine has a small selection of shops, cafes and basic fuel, while Žabljak and Nikšić provide more choice, and Foča is the larger option on the Bosnian side. Carry your passport and bike papers, because the border is close and routes cross it. In villages you can often buy homemade cheese, kajmak, a rich cream, and rakija, the strong fruit brandy, though the sensible rider will decline the last. A short stop to listen to cowbells and look at the hills is reward enough.