Trondheim was once Nidaros, the capital of Norway in the Viking Age, and the story of the country's conversion to Christianity runs through it. King Olav Haraldsson, later Saint Olav, was buried here after he fell at Stiklestad in 1030, and the cathedral that grew over his grave became the destination of pilgrims from across northern Europe. Nidaros Cathedral is still the biggest medieval building in Norway, its west front crowded with carved saints, and the pilgrim paths still arrive from the south and east.
The city lies on a loop of the river Nidelva where it meets a long fjord, and the old bridge across it, the Gamle Bybro, leads into Bakklandet, a district of brightly painted wooden houses and small cafes. Along the river the old warehouses stand on stilts above the water, a view that every visitor photographs. The people are friendly and a bit dry, and with the technical university in town the place has a young, busy feel even in a long Nordic winter.
As a riding base it is excellent, with a catch. The roads out of town are good, but the main route south is the E6 and the traffic on it is steady, with tolls collected electronically around the city. The reward comes when you leave it: the valley of the Gaula leads up toward Røros on a quiet road through farmland and then through forest, rising slowly onto the high plateau. Heading west and north along the coast road brings fjord views and ferries. Rain can arrive at any time of year, and at the start of the day a warm layer is cheap insurance.
Fuel is easy here, with stations all around the city and along the major roads. If you are starting early, a good coffee is easy to find, and Trondheim takes its coffee seriously. In the summer the light never fully fades, so a late departure is an option, and in the autumn the birch turns yellow along the river and the whole valley goes gold for a few weeks.