The Trollstigen Plateau is a bare, glacier-scoured saddle at 858 metres, ringed by peaks with names like Bispen, the Bishop, and Kongen, the King, and the viewing platform here, a sculptural structure of steel and concrete that hangs over the drop, is the best place to understand what the road does. Below, the Trollstigen, the Troll's Ladder, zigzags down the side of the valley in eleven hairpins, with the long white thread of the Stigfossen waterfall falling beside it, and beyond lies the broad green Isterdalen and the far peaks of Romsdalen.
The road opened in 1936, after twenty years of work, and King Haakon VII drove over it at the opening. It links Åndalsnes, twelve kilometres away, with Valldal and the fjords of Sunnmøre, and it is one of the most famous roads in Norway, so expect crowds in summer. The viewing platform, completed in the early 2010s, was designed to blend into the rock, and there is a visitor centre, a small cafe and toilets on the plateau. The weather is a major factor, since clouds often fill the valley and hide the view, and a clear day is a gift.
The riding is demanding but rewarding. The gradient is about ten percent, with tight, narrow hairpins, and the road is often crowded with campervans, tour buses and cyclists, so patience and care are essential. The surface is good, but the edges are unprotected in places, and rain makes the paving slippery. The road is closed in winter and usually opens in May, depending on the snow, so check the status before you go. Summer afternoons are busiest, and the best time is early morning or evening, when the crowds thin and the low sun lights the cliffs.
Fuel is a concern, and the pass has none, so fill in Åndalsnes, which has stations and shops, or in Valldal, on the other side. The cafe on the plateau serves waffles and coffee, with prices to match the view.
Spend a few minutes on the platform, look back at the road you have climbed, and notice the scale of the mountains. The Norwegians say that the weather here can change in minutes, and it is a good idea to wear a warm layer.